A circuit of Beinn Fhada (Ben Attow)

This was something I'd been intending to do for a while. Walk around Attow / Fhada from Morvich.

I remember reading a piece by Hamish Brown called "All about Attow" in his book The Last Hundred (written to cash in on the marketing of Muriel Grey's "The First Fifty?"), where he talked about walking the circuit of Beinn Fhada, the huge long mountain that sits behind the Five Sisters of Kintail.

I'd thought about this again when we were in the Youth Hostel in Glen Affric a few weeks back and with a few days off and a forecast that made the tops less attractive I decided to do this with a stop at the renovated Camban bothy as part of the circuit. PTC's recent report had got me thinking how much I like this area too.

It took me a while to get going on Wednesday and then there was traffic just north of Fort William due to an accident so I didn't get to Kintail until about 5:30. Then I decided that I needed to take a spare gas canister in with me so I called at the outdoor shop at Dornie. Then back up the Glen to Morvich and it was 6:15 before I go moving.

My pack was heavy - too heavy. I do a fair bit of hillwalking but do not normally stay out in the hills so I was definitely packing too much stuff. Even had a tent in case the bothy was full.

It was a good track round the back of the Five Sisters although the heavy rains meant it was very soggy and the burns off the hills were bigger and wider than I remembered.

After Glen Lichd house there was a new bridge and then a fair climb up out of the Glen. I'd forgotten how much of a climb this was although the waterfalls were spectacular and diverted me.

By 845 it was just about dark and the headtorch was on. The path was clear enough but it was with relief that I finally came upon the bothy at 9:20. I was tired and glad for its shelter.

It looked dark and empty and I went into the left hand room to set myself up. I lit a couple of candles and went to look around, finding a guy already in bed next door. I said hello but then left him to it as I went next door to eat a dehydrated curry and get to bed.

It was a fairly comfortable night. Next morning it was raining on and off and I sat at the table chatting to the guy from next door. He was a music teacher up from Stratford upon Avon for a few days and we talked hills and weather.

Just before I left we heard an engine and looked out to see a quad bike coming across the hill with two guys on, the passenger carrying a rifle. Stalking.

I said my goodbyes and left carrying on towards the hostel and then turning left to climb towards the lochan and then the beautiful high bealach between Fhada and A' Ghlas-bheinn, with its view down the v shaped valley back to Morvich.

I stopped at lunchtime, got the stove out and made a cupa soup and a coffee which felt very civilised except for the midgies which were driving me mental.


The walk down the glen from thehigh Bealach an Sgairne was exquisite although there was a swollen burn to wade across. Back to the car and then checking the forecast I headed for Ratagan youth hostel. I wanted to dry out.

I really enjoyed the walk, the journey and the night in the bothy. Definitely something I'll do again.